Thursday, September 2, 2010
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Annah Stretton Hair:
For Annah Stretton's S/S 2010/11 RAFW show we created two distinct hair looks.
The show was presented in two completely separate sections, Chameleon, where 10 models wore one dress styled in 10 different ways. And, Slaughter, where the models wore items from the latest collection.
For Slaughter, the muse and reference was a young Brigitte Bardot, who, in her time was a strong activist against the wilful mistreatment of animals. Annah herself wanted to send a message about the carelessness with which we treat pigs in particular in our part of the world.
Taking these references, inspiration was drawn from the rockabilly bikers of the 50s and 60s and the hair was blowaved back and off the face with a large bristle brush after applying lots of Touch Control 05 mousse layered with a little Woolshake 12 to give the hair a strong pliable texture with a slightly matt almost powdery finish. the hair was then backcombed through the top section for height and smoothed over with a Mason Pearson brush before spraying heavily with Forceful 23 strong hold finishing spray to lock the shape into place and add a shiny almost helmet like finish. the lengths of the hair were left free so that when the girls moved, their hair swung and danced for them. the look was finished by attaching a small hair covered animal to the front of each of the girls hairdos. These animals were sourced from toy stores, individually matched to each of the girls and then a team of five spent approximately 60 hours gluing and trimming colour matched hair to each animal.
For Chameleon, the reference images we worked from were of a young pop punk princess and they gave us the essence of the woman that would wear this look. We really wanted to embrace this feeling and push into a more fashion forward and slightly more grown up look while still encapsulating the rebellion of the references.
The hair was prepped by applying Touch Control 05 mousse to the hair section by section so that the hair was damp with product then layering Woolshake 12 for extra grit and texture before blast drying the hair. Hair was then brushed through with a large cushion brush, parted on the side and raked back with the hands into a ponytail at the nape. this ponytail was then twisted into a flat bun secured with pins and fixed into place with loads of Forceful 23 to give a shiny, lacquered finish to the slightly unruly looking bun. the parting was then messed up and the fringe was arranged carefully over the face and right eye before being fixed into place with Workforce 09.
I borrowed some of these pics from Bellasugar and StyleIcons and washed them down with a Redbull or two...
Sara Phillips Hair:
For Sara Phillips’ RAFW S/S 2010/11 collection my brief was to emulate the look from their upcoming lookbook. I wanted to make it a little more runway so we pushed the size of the hair and also the texture to make it a little more dramatic and romantic as the girls walked.
The inspirartion for the look was a combination of rockabilly trucker meets country girl home on the range. Rather than being androgynous, the hair was more of a fusing of feminine texture with a masculine shape to create a paradox of sexuality.
First, the hair was prepared by applying a large handful of Redken Touch Control 05 styling mousse to dry hair, and blasting dry with a hot hairdryer. Then the hair was brushed thoroughly with a large Mason and Pearson cushion brush to create a romantic flyaway texture before creating the shape.
The hair is then split into three distinct sections. 1: Fringe, which is a large rough triangular shaped section which starts at the highest point of the head and goes to the front hairline. 2: Sides and crown, which is created by taking a rough horizontal parting from the back of the left ear to the back of the right ear. 3: back, which is the hair left at the bottom of the back after creating the sides and crown section.
Take one side of section 2 (the sides and crown) and sweep it up onto the crown. Pin it flat to the head at the crown with a couple of crossed bobby pins. Sweep the other side up and mush it flat onto the crown. Secure it into place hooking french or U-pins into it. Fix it into place with Redken Forceful 23 strong hold finishing spray. Next, lightly backcomb the fringe section, drag it forward and roll it back into a coif shape and pin into place. The back is left natural and loose. Finish by pulling bits of the hair into place with your fingers until it has a rough disheveeled feel and fix with some Redken Workforce 09 pliabe working spray.
RAFW MAC GALA DINNER HAIR:
The MAC gala dinner was an extravaganza of Haute Couture with 10 different dresses all made from paper and designed exclusively for MAC NYC by Zaldy (Ru Paul’s costumier apparently).
I was called upon to hair direct half of the looks, while my good friend and Redken hair director Mr Todd Arndt of Vogue Nationale in Brisvegas looked after the other 5.
My five looks were: Spaghetti Dress, Heart Dress, Main Dress, Pencil Shavings Dress and Geo Dress.
For each look, it was important to keep the hair looking Very couture inspired and also to have a sense of the essence of the dress in it.
For the Spaghetti dress we set the hair on a 1” curling iron after preparing it with loads of Touch Control 05 Mousse. Then the back of the head was section off from ear to ear and a long weft of hair was clipped into the models own hair and fishtail braided. This braid was then wound around the models head on the left hand side and clipped under the curls at the crown. The rest of the hair was brushed out into a glamourous movie star wave before being rouched up into a short shape and fixed with bobby pins. The effect being a short floaty flyaway romantis looks with a strong wave falling over one eye. The look was finished with a top secret Redken product which is still in development (hint: dry shampoo).
The Heart Dress required that we fix some small paper hearts to the head. So, I pulled the hair into a really clean and polished french pleat which gave the hair the look of having a seam right up the middle from the nape to the top of the head. And then working with a triangle shaped fringe section, the hair was set on a 1.25” curling iron with Redken Hot Sets 22 before being brushed out, backcombed and then brushed into a pompadour. After pinning the pompadour into place, we finished the whole look with Redken Workforce 09 while smoothing the surface of the do with a fine bristle brush. Then we fixed three paper hearts to the side of the head.
The Main dress posed the greatest challenge as he reference we had was an amazing triangular bob that was created especially for a stills image. Days and days of testing different shapes to get the style to work in three dimensions and we finally decided on pinsetting a long wig and then clipper cutting the bootom to create a dramatic angular bob. Then we changed our mind on the day… in the end we went for a neo japanese look inspired by geisha and sumo bit with a soft flyaway romance to the hair, the hair was prepped by spraying Redken Woolshake into the hair before blowdrying with a round brush. This gave a pliable texture with a matte, powdery finish. Then the back of the hair was separated by making a vertical parting from the high point of the head to the top of each ear. This back section was pulled up into a clean ponytail at the crown and then pulled through the hair elastic to make a bow shape. The left over hair was wrapped around the base of the ponytail and pinned into place. The same was done on the left hand side of the head, only the hair from the right hand side was incorporated into this pony to give it a bit of extra density. The top was then rolled into a kind of elevated chignon which served as a base to pin the large paper hat to. The haie was left floaty and flyawya to add a sense of romance rather than following the traditional style for this type of shpae and having it highly polished and wet looking.
My favourite hair from the whole show was for the Pencil Shavings dress. For this look, we applied Redken For Men Stand Tough styling gel section by section onto the hair. Then with a clean low side parting on the left hand side the hair was combed from left to right into a strong finger wave which waved onto the face and back to the ear. The long hair was then gathered at the back of the right ear and twisted into a figure eight chignon. The hair was then smoothed with the ail of a comb and lacquered into place with Redken Forceful 23 stronghold finishing spray. The final touch was to mit Redken Vinyl Glam all over to create a patent leather like shine.
For the Geo dress the hair was blowaved poker straight with Redken Satin Wear 02 ultimate blowdry lotion and then flat ironed poker straight. A large triangular fringe section was separated out and the rest of the hair was pulled into the perfect ponytial at the nape with not a hair our of place. The fringe was then combed forward and rolled tightly around a small piece of mesh before being pinned into a short geometric bang and finished with Redken Workforce 09.
Monday, May 3, 2010
I haven’t written for a while. I’ve just been trying to get my head around the amazing experience I had working with Guido in NYC, Milan and Paris.
After doing a couple of shows with the guys in Paris, they asked if I’d be joining them in Milan. Rude not to I thought. So I did.
First show off the plane: Prada. Shit. Amazing! What can I say? Guido is a man with a vision, a talent and the tenacity to see it through. He surrounds himself with incredibly and diversely skilled hairstylists and works hard to get the best out of everyone. I was priveleged to be a part of the team for a season and to work on some of my all time favourite designers’ shows.
I’m in Sydney for Rosemount Australian Fashion Week and have been living on redbull and biscuits. It’s been mad twenty-hour days prepping, testing, doing shows and more shows. On Friday I have 4 shows and two of them are on at the same time!
Anyhoo, here's a few pretty pictures from the MAC gala dinner. Todd Arndt and I designed five hair looks each. Pretty eh?
More photos and stories to come hopefully…
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
REDBULL TAKES YOU BACKSTAGE:
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK A/W 10 FEBRUARY 2010.
One word. Guido for Diesel. I know, I know, technically that’s 3 words but you know, one word give or take…
Today I got to work on Guido Palau’s team backstage at Diesel.
It was the sort of hair that some people may look at and ask how come it took 25 hairdressers 4 and a half hours to do nothing?
But it’s the sort of hair that requires just the right products, just the right technique and just the right touch…
Effortless beauty is far from effortless.
I have to thank my friend Louise Pilkington of Servilles in Ponsonby, a regular on Guido’s team for the hook up. Thanks Loulou.
The models’ hair was first sprayed down with water (although we could have just sent them outside to stand in the snow for a few minutes) and then layered with Redken Fabricate 03 and Redken Woolshake before it was very lightly air dried with a blowdryer (guess what brand I was using? No? OK, it was Richard Kavanagh) while manipulating the hair into a beachy tousled wave. Then it was brushed lightly with a mason pearson and tousled a little more to give it texture and bounce with a little height at the crown…
Same deal with the boys.
The show was run at a cracking pace (which may explain why my photos are a little soft). the models fiercely strode from behind a shiny metallic cubist backdrop and caned it down the catwalk and back. any faster, they would have cracked into a full run...
O for awesome!
Monday, February 15, 2010
REDBULL TAKES YOU BACKSTAGE:
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK A/W 10 FEBRUARY 2010.
There’s one problem with only being tall on the inside. And that’s being short on the outside.
I was lucky enough to get along to Marc Jacobs’ (one of my all time fav designers) show today. Only I was too short to see over the people standing in front of me.
I think I may have seen Anna Wintour standing too actually, she could probably see.
The show itself was amazing. It was in a giant cardboard box inside the Armoury. I couldn’t see the clothes. I’m sure they were real pretty. His clothes always are.
I did manage to sneak backstage and I saw that the guys were blowdrying lots of Redken Woolshake into the hair to give it a real lived in texture.
This fashion week, it’s all about lived in, second day feel, romantic glamour.
Oh, except for Carolina Herrera. Her hair was blowdried smooth and shiny and ironed straight into a highly polished look. Still floaty and feminine though.
Carlos Miele, the Brazilian designer, blew me away last season with his sexy, feminine, and elegant designs and this season, his collection was equally sexy but a whole lot more playful with bright colours, short skirts and high heels.
Texture was created in the long hair by blowing Redken Workforce into it with a blowdryer, then pulling all the hair back into a ponytail and twisting it into a seashell shape before securing it with french pins and finishing with a touch more Workforce.
If fashion week gives us a glimpse of the social landscape, then I think we’re in for a whole lotta fun in the next couple of years!